You can see the setup in the following picture. I had to fiddle with things to make sure they were aligned correctly. To cut the scarf joint, which is at 10 degrees, I set my sliding miter table to 40 degrees, clamped a square piece of stock to the fence, then clamped my neck blank to the square stock. As we'll see below, I still didn't have it right. Finally, I was fairly satisfied with how it was looking. Then I did it wrong, so I had to erase it and do it a third time. Then I remembered that I didn't account for the peghead veneer and this would affect the final measurements, so I had to erase it and do it again. This took some head scratching, but after a while I think I had it worked out. To begin, I had to do some drawing and measuring on the side of the neck blank to determine where the scarf joint should be cut. Let's just say that after measuring my neck stock I discovered that I didn't have quite enough length to do the second of the methods, so the decision was an easy one for me. The debate on the two methods and their characteristics and which is better to use is beyond the scope of what I want to get into here, and actually has proponents on each end of the fence. I've illustrated the two methods in the picture below. There are two ways to do this, both which have their pros and cons. The first thing to do is cut the scarf joint, which will allow the headstock to be angled back (in this case 10 degrees). Now that my blank stock was ready, I took one of the neck blanks (with the 3 pieces of maple) and began work on the neck.
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